Prior to stepping foot on western Sicily, I had visited 9 different regions and innumerable cities in Italy. However, nothing could have prepared me for the cultural diversity that I would discover in this island. From endless hills spanning the horizon to sprawling beaches, vestiges of ancient Greek temples to limestone cliffs that shimmered in the morning dew, arancinos that will tease your taste buds to freshly prepared pistachio butter, Sicily is a complete package!
Although western Sicily is not as popular when compared to the east, what I uncovered was pure magic! My trip was filled with so much sparkle and glitter that I just HAD to dedicate a blog post that would hopefully convince you to visit Sicily’s Wild West and experience the magic yourself!
Contents
- Why Western Sicily?
- How to get to Western Sicily?
- When is the best time to visit Western Sicily?
- Possible Road Trip Halts in Western Sicily
- What to eat in Sicily
- Ready, Set, Go!
Why Western Sicily?
Given its strategic location in the Mediterranean, Sicily has a very diverse culture when compared to mainland Italy! The historical legacy of Sicily goes back to more than 2500 years of Greek, Roman, French, Spanish and Italian colonization! Thus, every corner of Sicily has a story to tell from a different period of time! Moreover, subtle differences further exist between eastern and western Sicily that just cannot be overlooked. If your trip is shorter than a week, pick one half of the island and stick to that side.
While eastern Sicily has plenty of picturesque Baroque towns, western Sicily is home to some of the best beaches in the island and is far less frequented by tourists! Moreover, since the west of Sicily is just a stone’s throw away from the African continent, beautiful Arab influences dominate the landscape. If you know me, you will know that I am a sucker for any city with fewer tourists. So, the decision to head to the west was an easy choice and this blog will feature a rough itinerary of what I was upto when I was prancing and prowling in Sicily’s Wild West!!
How to get to Western Sicily?
By Plane
Western Sicily can be accessed by two airports,
- Palermo Airport Falcone Borcellino (PMO)
- Trapani–Birgi Airport (TPS)
Both of these airports are served by budget airlines like Ryan Air so cheap tickets will almost always be available from major cities in Europe! However, given a choice, it is better to fly to Palermo!
By Train
Although Sicily is an island, there are trains running from mainland Italy to Sicily! Once the tip of mainland Italy is reached, the train is transported on a ferry across the Straits of Messina. It is a rather long journey to Sicily but if you have a Eurail pass, it could be worth it. There are currently two intercity routes terminating at Sicily from mainland Italy,
- Rome to Palermo (11,5 hours)
- Naples to Palermo (9 hours)
Upon reaching the island, the train splits into two, with one part of the coach heading to the east and the other to western Sicily. You can also disembark at other stops in Sicily. More information regarding the timings, price, frequency of the trains can be found here. (The departure station must be mentioned as ‘Roma Termini’ for Rome or ‘Napoli Centrale’ for Naples and arrival station must be mentioned as ‘Palermo Centrale’)
By Bus
Several companies provide bus services to Sicily from mainland Italy. Again, upon reaching the tip of mainland Italy, the bus is transported on a ferry across the Straits of Messina. More information regarding the timings, price, frequency of the trains can be found here.
By Ferry
Since Sicily is an island, a very unique way to reach it would be to by using a ferry! There are several ferry companies operating from different cities like Genoa, Naples, Valetta, Cagliari etc. to Palermo. However, taking a ferry is not the fastest option! For example, the ferry ride from Naples to Palermo takes around ten hours and if you have sea sickness, this is probably not a good idea! More information regarding the timings, price, frequency of the trains can be found here.
By Car
Driving to Sicily by loading your car into the ferry is also an option! However, if you are visiting Sicily as a tourist, it is probably easier to reach Sicily using some other means of transport and eventually rent a scooter or a car to travel around Sicily. I did the former as there is definitely something magical about feeling the salty Mediterranean air on your face and pacing through the island. However, if you wish to transport your vehicle to Sicily, all the information you require can be found here. (Route: Villa San Giovanni – Messina)
When is the best time to visit Western Sicily?
Sicily has a typical Mediterranean climate throughout the year with mild winters and hot summers. Moreover, western Sicily is considerably warmer when compared to the east due to the Sirocco (Scirocco) winds from the Sahara Desert. Due to this, summers can be quite hot! Thus, to experience Sicily in all its glory by avoiding tourists and the scorching sun at the same time, I would suggest late spring (May) or early fall (September to mid of October)!
If swimming is not a part of your itinerary, it is worthwhile to know that Sicily has a very pleasant Spring. During this time, the temperatures vary from 10 – 20 degree Celsius and precipitation is almost non – existent a.k.a., perfect weather for road trips and outdoor adventures!
How to get around Western Sicily?
The best way to see Western Sicily is by renting a car or a scooter. The tiny towns and vibrant villages largely contribute to Sicily’s charm and by renting a vehicle, they will not be missed! However, Sicilians have a reputation for being absolutely crazy behind the wheel. Therefore, in case you are not comfortable driving around Sicily, public transportation is a sensible option.
It is harder to get around in western Sicily using public transportation when compared to the east. Nevertheless, meticulous planning can definitely help find your way through this part of the island. Some of the resources that can be used for this purpose are,
- Train Schedules – Trenitalia
- Bus Schedules
Unfortunately, these providers all function independently. Hence, there is no ‘one integrated platform’ wherein all these four providers interlink their schedules. Therefore, individual searches will be necessary to figure out what works best for you!
What to see in Western Sicily
I opted to rent a scooter to experience western Sicily. My road trip started and ended at Palermo and the stops I made along the way are marked in the map below,
Regardless of my choice of transport, most of the places mentioned in this section can also be visited using public transportation.
Cefalù (Shef-a-loo)
Despite being a small fishing village, Cefalù is hardly undiscovered, making it one of the most well-known tourist towns in Sicily. Having rambled through the cobblestone alleys and soaked the salty air that teased my skin, it was clear why the masses were drawn to Cefalù! Cefalù truly is a quintessential representation of the perfect Sicilian town!
State Highway SS286/ SS120
The charm of Sicily lies in its smallest towns and villages, roads that run through rugged terrain and people who smile and give endlessly! Deciding to drive through the state highways, SS286 and SS120, was one of my best decisions of this trip! Thus, if renting a car is an option, navigating this bunch of serpentine curves must totally be on your list for the views throughout are absolutely splendid!
Agrigento (Agri-jent-o)
Agrigento is an ancient Greek colony and sits on a hill just off the southern coast of Sicily. Prior to visiting Sicily, I had never heard of this town. However, visiting Agrigento is like unlocking a window to the past. The city’s Valley of Temples has the best-preserved Doric temples symbolizing Greek architecture outside of Greece.
After a stroll through history, you can also head to the most beautiful limestone cliffs, called Scala dei Turchi, and watch the sun sinking into the horizon.
Sciacca (Sha-ka)
Sciacca is a gorgeous city with one of the best views of the Mediterranean Sea. Moreover, this city has tons of thermal baths to soothe those tired muscles after a day of adventure in Agrigento! I also stopped at Ribera on the way to Sciacca and had by far the juiciest oranges of my life!
Marsala (Marsala)
If you are a wine lover, chances are that you already know about Marsala Wine, a type of fortified wine that this region is the most famous for. However, if you think that this is all there is to Marsala, you are grossly mistaken! In addition to the wine, you will also witness beautiful sunsets, traverse through a landscape specked with windmills from centuries ago and learn about the salt pans that dominate the landscape. Moreover, at this point of your trip, you would be closer to Tunisia than to mainland Italy and if that doesn’t make for a fun fact, I don’t know what will!
Trapani
Trapani is the perfect base if you want to see Western Sicily. If you decide to stop here, do not forego a trip to Erice (Ehr-ee-chey), a wonderfully preserved walled town from the medieval period!
A trip to the seaside town, Castellammare del Golfo is also worthwhile to soak up the sun and feel like a bronzed goddess later!
Palermo
The Sicilian capital is more than just a ‘road trip halt’ and I would recommend at least a day or two in Palermo. While it is true that Sicilian Mafia tarnishes the reputation of Palermo, the city I visited seemed like a relaxed city break destination providing the best street food and the most beautiful Baroque architecture. When you are there, it is also worthwhile to head to one of the outdoor food markets and observe the chaos, crowds and curated madness.
Where to stay Western Sicily
The accommodation options in Western Sicily are endless and depends heavily on whether you have your own vehicle or are dependent on public transport.
If opting for public transportation options, base yourself for a few days in Trapani and Palermo. They have the best connections to nearby towns. For instance, there is a train running every hour from Palermo to Cefalu. The journey takes a little over an hour and is perfect as a day trip from Palermo. Similarly, Marsala and Trapani are both part of the regional network line. Trains run approximately every two hours between these towns.
However, if you have your own vehicle, I highly recommend dividing your stay across various towns. I stayed in Palermo, Agrigento and Marsala and loved having the extra time in all of these cities. If you are looking for a unique accommodation option, there are plenty of ‘agriturismo’ options in Marsala and Trapani. Agriturismo, roughly translates to ‘farm stay’ but can be thought of as an independently owned farm where you will be woken up by roosters and served fresh produce from the farms! If tis is not your jam, there is always Airbnb to find something you love!
For extremely budget accommodation options, hostelworld is a lifesaver. However, from my experience, hostels are only present in Palermo and Agrigento.
What to eat in Western Sicily
Sicily is a foodie’s dream. From freshly prepared arancinos to mouth watering cannolis, Sicilians know how to charm your foodie heart. Thus, irrespective of what you decide to eat in Sicily, your taste buds will be set ablaze!
However, if you want to know my top picks from Sicilian cuisine, I have that covered in a separate blog post.
Ready, Set Go!
It is highly likely that Western Sicily was never a part of your Italian itinerary. Regardless, I highly recommend squeezing in a week or two to explore this island tucked away in the Mediterranean to experience Italy in a whole new light!
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Have any questions about traveling to Western Sicily? Leave them in the comments below!
Some of the photos featured in this blog are taken by my friend, @doyouflash
Very well explained, Excited to visit this place soon!!!